at about C3 is our friend the SOLENOID and you can see where the chassis battery positive connects to the "ISOLATED STUD (LOCATED IN BATTERY COMPT) and then continues to the right side of the solenoid (per the drawing. "In Theory" that purple wire that's labeled as "14 PUR, LR" on the diagram goes up into the chassis wiring harness which brings us to the third wiring diagram "Automotive Wiring Diagram" which is a bit harder to follow. The more complete wiring picture is in the "Body Wiring Diagram" document on page 1 in the bottom-left but in this representation the "changeover" is now the "battery mode" solenoid and is on the top of the picture. The solenoid below it at F7 (P/N 0) is the "battery changeover" which should be the one that connects and disconnects the alternator/chassis battery from the house batteries. When you flip that switch, you should hear some pretty solid clicking or popping. That's the Battery Disconnect switch which activates the relay on page two of the "Front End Wiring Installation" wiring diagram (top left, G7 square, P/N 80). I've heard of that being called the "salesman's switch" or whatever and being located by the door on some chassis. On mine, I have two switches for the batteries one is a simple on/off for the house batteries which is on the dash. If you only care about arriving at the destination, skip down to the TL DR section below. If you want to know the details read below. My coach is probably somewhat similar to yours, so I'll make some sweeping assumptions, but your mileage may vary. I had a similar problem with my battery switch - no house battery charging while driving, but I couldn't hold down the momentary switch and get power through that system. Is it a momentary switch or an on/off switch? If you only have a one way switch then it should not stay on unless the switch does not spring back to center. (Unless your bulb housing broke like mine) If the other solenoid is not clicking see if you are getting voltage to the small terminal when the switch is pushed. On the Winnebago that switch is on the dash with a little light next to it and the light will be on the whole time the battery power to the coach is turned on. And from all charging! now I don't know what you have done with the solar but that switch in the off position will kill the main converter from charging the batteries also since they are disconnected from the system.
If everything is wired correctly that switch disconnects the batteries from the coach. So when it clicks the battery power to the coach should be off completely, nothing should work at all. Quote from: Rickf1985 on January 30, 2020, 06:39 PM As Dave siad, The one you say is clicking is the battery shut off switch. Once we wake up at the Flying J in Eloy, AZ on Friday, we only have another 50 miles or so to go and we will arrive at the Arizona Renaissance Festival! So in the morning, I'm going to follow the wires from the AC fans and see where they lead me, since the morning weather is supposed to be nice and we have a little time to kill. We made it all the way to Exit 0, Anthony, TX today.and only have a fairly short 349 miles to drive to the Flying J in Eloy, AZ tomorrow. So why do the fans come on and run constantly now when the engine is running (and only when the engine is running)? Those fans have never run before since we've owned this rig, and the AC in the dash doesn't work yet.
#RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY FULL#
Why do you ask? Because the dang air conditioning fans in front of the AC evaporator (the radiator thing in the front of the RV that looks like a radiator) run full blast now when the engine is running, and the AC switch on the dash is OFF. Mine only has a one way MOM switch.but I'm starting to suspect a short.
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